Where do I start? Day – Afternoon – Night
“Loving her was like shaking hands with the devil” was the first thing came to mind when the first looks appeared. A voice describing the garments, that was the “soundtrack” of the collection, it was a wink to the past and how designers used to present their clothes, i ́m not even sure if “runway” was a thing back then.
Head to toe black and white menʼs tailoring it was what the models wore first, decorated with pins that usually mens used to wear and im actually glad they came back, stand out over the monochromatic looks like the rest little bright details; hair clips, brooches, the golden reflective contour from the clutch bags that turned to red with the red velvet floor.
The black and white menʼs tailoring begin to turned into penguin tail suit and high cup hats looks, it was like they were about to introduce an orchestra or something bigger and suddenly an eccentric upside down metal hair bow appeared at the head of the models and underneath a babydoll in pastel colors that anyone would love to sleep in.
From black and white, to baby doll pajama party, to leopard, to once again black and white, to flowers, to colorful monochromatic looks, to art deco fashion design illustration motives, to wedding dresses, to sequined golden, to a disco era like section and head ornaments of every kind: feathers, pearls, high cup hats, wide brimmed hats, bibis, berets, gangsta hats, fedoras and art deco ornaments, this collection was a multi everything, signatured looks from Dolce and Gabbana.
At the colorful monochromatic section one look caught my eye; the emerald mineral framed sunglasses art deco look it was like looking at poison ivy with a felt fabric ornament on her head that some way also reminded me to medusa and she was covering her eyes to not turned you in stone, even the shoes were made or at least they seemed like the mineral framed sunglasses.
The Grand Palais Rosa opened it´s doors to present for the last time the collection of our beloved Karl Lagerfield in the middle of a hear-warming alpine town with smoking chimneys. A charcoal illustration with Karl´s handwriting reminded us the everything in some point at life has to end and it´s ok but the beat won´t stop and life most continue. Just before the show started we were asked for a minute of silence as a gesture of respect and honor to Karl.
The show was opened by Cara Delevigne one of Karl muses and the ski theme was recognizable almost by instant leaving ‘side the set design. There was ski goggles shaped sunglasses with their big uni-lens ‘nd white wide frame, snowflake like hair pins, nordic sweaters motives woven with the traditional silhouette ‘and classic tweed houndstooth fabric that represent so well the House of Chanel were the motor of the collection.
There was pure hearted details in each look like the ski gondola purse that had fogged glasses with ‘ finger-written Coco above a heart and on the sides below the interlaced leather and chain, meticulous tiny ski bo’rds ‘nd poles. Or the heart shaped earrings traced with pearls ‘nd the childish ice skates hair pins… you could perceive a very familiar but nostalgic feeling between the collection and Karlʼs absence.
Close friend and ambassador of Chanel Penelope Cruz closed the runway in a white ensemble ‘and ‘ white rose in hand’s ‘ secret tribute to Karlʼs instructions: displaying ‘ bouquet of white roses and remove all items from the showcase display after his death.
Lagerfeld muses led Chanel ́s closure walk with Cara Delevigne, Mica Argañaraz and Cat McNeil who couldnʼt hold it for a while before crack into tears along with Mariacarla Boscono while Heroes from David Bowie w’s playing ‘t the background, the same track that closed Fendiʼs Karl last collection ‘t Milan. Collaborators and workers close to Karl not only lost an ally but a person who believed in them and made them feel like they belong, ‘t the end of the day they lost more than anything a friend.
When the show was over people remained on their seat waiting for at least 10 minutes one last “go out with a bang” moment but it was not like that, just the murmur and the expectation of a moment that never came and that maybe it was better that way.
Karl was past and present and this collection was definitely the line that marks the opening to a new era, for the moment we can only wait and wish the best to Virginie Viard and the Chanel crew.