Today started Paris Fashion Week Haute Couture, a season you know is very close to my heart, with brands and shows I enjoy immensely. And the first one I want to talk to you about, is Dior’s one.
Celebrating the 70th anniversary of the house of Dior, a retrospective dedicated to the origins of its founder took place this morning in Paris, where visitors were greeted and immersed into the maison universe. The Haute Couture spring collection was mainly inspired in tarot cards and the divinatory arts, in particular a 15th-century tarot deck designed for the Duke of Milan, which added the palette of dusty tones and old gold.
Did you know Christian Dior, himself was a highly superstitious and consulted his clairvoyant on all major decisions? “I think it’s a way also to be introspective. When you read the cards, it’s something that reflects your personality. It’s closer to auto-analysis than superstition,” Maria Grazia explained. At a personal level, I’m also very attracted to this idea and always paying extra attention to signs and symbols presented during my life.
Chiuri was reunited with Italian director Matteo Garrone to produce a short film, “Le Château du Tarot,” the story of a young woman who goes on a journey of self-discovery. A mysterious castle and symbolic figures serve as the background of this extraordinary tale of renaissance, so needed in these uncertain times we are all experiencing.
I loved the fact that all of them looked like Old Masters paintings coming to life. A coppery velvet dévoré dress was hand-painted with zodiac signs, while the bodice on a gilded open-work dress represented the World card, which signifies an ending to a cycle of life. Illustrations by Pietro Ruffo were worked into several designs, while celestial motifs appeared in delicate gold thread on a faded pink and blue jacquard sack-back gown.
One of my favorites was a long gown tailored in lace with puff sleeves, the romanticism was increased with a tiara of river pearls. Despite of being Haute Couture, there were several wearable looks, like a pair of jacquard pants in combination with an embroidered top with sheer sleeves. The shoes and boots were to die for, crafted in a delicate yet strong aesthetics. Those have a special place in my 2021 wish-list. Also a personal favorite was the mini dress with structural sleeves that resembles a medieval harlequin.
There was a fairy-tale quality to some outfits, such as a diaphanous blue gown scattered with sequins that came with a matching translucent veil. Several looks had skulls painted or embroidered on the chest, and there was an androgynous streak running through the lineup, best summed up in the black velvet trouser suit with Bar jacket. We were also able to presence an abundance of Empire necklines, very “Bridgerton”.
“We worked with so many different techniques, that are so luxurious, that it can come across as really cinematic,” she acknowledged. Maria Grazia said she wanted to display the full breadth of couture techniques — including a showstopping feather-embroidered cape — in order to guarantee the survival of the specialized Paris workshops whose skills go into the one-of-a-kind outfits.
“I know that everybody’s obsessed with this crisis to be simple, to be more basic and functional. But couture is about uniqueness, craftsmanship and tradition, and if we don’t do that in couture, I think it’s really sad for the future of these traditions, because the risk is that we lose them,” she warned. And I couldn’t agree more, we need to embrace the exquisite beauty of Haute Couture and prevail its heritage, during good but specially the not-so-good times.
Did any of you had the opportunity to see the show? I’d love to hear your opinion’s about it!